May 07, 2018 | By Lizzy Bowring
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Vanessa Bruno has the knack for distilling cutting-edge trends in ways that make them palatable to the buying public. For spring, she married two big stories emerging this season — lingerie and sports — for a collection that was not too delicate and not too tough, but with plenty of feminine appeal. Football shoulder pads and fringed epaulettes added structure to delicate Victorian-inspired crushed gauze blouses and smocked tent dresses. T-shirt jersey was inset with lace or got a bit of sparkle for delicate demi-sheer tops and silk shantung gym shorts were punched with laser-cut holes for a luxe take on athletic mesh. The exchange of influences worked in moderation: snap tape on bandeau dresses and miniskirts provided a clever adjustable option and lace “sweat bands” around the foot added a decorative touch under strappy sandals; perhaps galloon lace “knee pads” and “wrist guards” were a bit too literal. Hot pink, flame orange, and stark black tuxedo jackets were paired with appliquéd tap pants (much like the ones seen yesterday at Viktor & Rolf), and lace jabots came off blouses and became necklaces — all a welcome update for the dust-covered remnants of grandma’s trousseau, striking the right balance between feminine and masculine, antique and modern.
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