Mar 31, 2017 | By Catarina Lambranho
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BELLE DU JOUR
Vanessa Bruno, like many designers this season, played with genders, nonchalantly layering menswear suit jackets over feminine minis. The show notes suggested a Parisian girl walking on a sunny winter day in the Luxembourg Gardens. “It’s about the French Parisian girl. I was inspired by the film, Belle du Jour with Catherine Deneuve, set in the late sixties,” said Vanessa. “Borrowing from a man’s wardrobe and mixing with something very feminine, creating something modern and urban.” The collection tells a story of a girl that went into a man’s closet and stole a wool coat, a chalk-striped suit and the perfect poplin shirt; trousers were a little too big and shoulders were slightly off. But behind the laminated woolens and lacquered flannels lay a romantic. Flirty femininity came from pleated asymmetric details, sequinned deco motifs, and layered shifts. “The dresses are a combination of two dresses in one,” explained Vanessa. While the 60s inspiration was there in the eyelets, low-slung hips, and little coatdresses, there was certain timelessness about the collection; it was neat, simple and straightforward. —Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Menswear / Mini / 60s
Color: Grey / Ecru / Vanilla / White / Black / Navy
Key Items: Chalk-stripe menswear flannel suit / Lacquered mini-skirts / Oversized menswear trousers / Tuxedo jackets / Coatdresses / Embroidered silk shift dresses
Materials: Wool flannel / Melton wool / Crepe silk / Silk georgette / Cotton poplin “fil-à-fil”
Print + Pattern: Color blocking / Laminated borders / Contrasting fabrics / Geometric deco embroideries
Details + Trim: Subtle quilting / Sparkly borders / Contrasting white shirt collar / Metallic eyelets
Accessories + Footwear: Black-and-white contrasting pointy-toed pumps
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