Jun 11, 2018 | By Nick Paget
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Paris: Sensuality rediscovered (with a “Petit Prince” twist), was the starting point for the fluid and feminine offering from Vanessa Bruno. “I went to the early 19th century French seaside for my inspiration, with traditional French fabrics,” said Vanessa. There was a freshness to the antique blue-and-white porcelain patterns, tapestry florals and delicate scarf prints, all combined with Vanessa’s trademark tailoring — spencer jackets, frock coats (short and long), slacks with slit cuffs pinched from a man’s wardrobe and clean androgynous shirts. Modernity came from slithery silk chiffon slip dresses with subtle color-blocking, clever gathers and cuts that showed off skin-gracing necklines, while broderie anglaise, leaf motifs and pajama stripes added to the Deauville feel. Pleated chiffon skirts and dresses were gorgeously feminine, styled with crafty hand-knit sweaters and high-heeled lace-up sandals. ”I like how the young generation dresses; it’s a coolness and a relaxed attitude to how they combine clothes. That’s what I’m looking for,” said Vanessa. There were some edgier pieces, like a bright red leather jacket and pants, but the main color scheme underlined the soft sensual mood with creamy whites and nudes highlighted by shades of make-up. One could imagine Jane Birkin, one of Vanessa’s muses, tossing on these chic leathers and bohemian silks on her way to a sunny destination. —Celia Ingesson
Silhouette: Loose and layered / Dropped waist / Midi or floor-grazing
Color: Cream/ Nude / Blush / Old rose / Poppy / Hibiscus / Peony / Gold / White / Black
Key Items: The frock coat (both long and hip length) / The tuxedo jacket with nipped-in waist / Draped dresses with dropped waistline / Pajama pants / Bias cut skirts (from midi to floor-length) / The menswear shirt / Ankle-length slit slacks
Materials: Sand-washed silk satin / Silk georgette / Leather / Linen / Second-skin sequins / Cotton voile / Metallic fluid fabrics / Hand-knitted cable stitch in cotton / Jacquards / Broderie Anglaise / Subtle brocade / Irish cable knits / Crochet
Print + Pattern: Color and fabric blocking / Leaf motifs in prints and embroideries/ Tapestry-inspired flower motifs / Ancient porcelain print / Borders
Details + Trim: Ostrich feather-like fringe / Contrasting fabrics and trimmings / Subtle color-blocking / Lace and crochet inserts / Hand-stitched tucks / Placed pleats / Drawstrings / Hook-and-eye fastenings
Accessories + Footwear: Lace-up sandals with pointy closed toe, in natural leather and white / Flat natural leather gladiator sandals / Snake-and-white-leather clutches / Carryall totes
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