Valentino F/W 2011

Paris: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli took a calculated step away from Valentino’s history at the beginning of their appointment to the house, but have slowly been making their way back to the legendary couturier’s archives on their own terms. The younger looks that won them critical acclaim and a new, hip audience were tempered this season with a sense of sophistication that will appeal to clients of the Last Emperor (as the imperious Valentino was called in a 2008 documentary). Simple wool sheaths were updated with ribbed knit sleeves and backs, giving them a slimmer fit, trousers were easy and relaxed, and glossy leather coats were a highlight. On the younger side, 60s silhouettes abounded, with the A-line skirt as a key item. In addition to the pale filmy looks for which the duo has come to be known, they presented darker tones of navy, emerald and oxblood this time around, giving the looks more emotional depth and showing more of the design duo’s range.

Color: Blush pink / Nude / Oxblood / Navy / Teal / Emerald / Plum / Mustard / Inky black

Key Items: A-line skirts / Leather trench coats / Sheer blouses / Boxy skirt suits / Relaxed trousers

Materials: Glossy leathers / Chiffon / Cashmere / Wool suitings / Lace / Fur / Feathers / Velvet / Laser-cut leathers

Print + Pattern: Large-scale plaids / Feather prints

Details + Trim: Ribbed knit sleeves and back panels / Flower appliqués / Leather trim / Sequins / Lace overlay / Ruffles / Victorial collars / Bow necks / Piecing

Accessories + Footwear: Envelope shoulder bags / Snakeskin corded belt and clutch / Simple headbands / Snakeskin boots / Ankle-strap pumps

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