Avoiding the immediacy of the ‘see now, buy now’ catwalks, this collection was all about encouraging the front row to enjoy the collection in the moment. WGSN Global News Editor Nigel Taylor reports
Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli have turned Valentino into a fashion powerhouse with sales up over 50% in the past two years. So the stakes are huge when it comes to the reception for their season collections. But they have little to worry about as the press, the buyers and just about everyone else simply loves them.
Yesterday in Paris was a case in point. WWD summed it up with a review that started: “Brava! Bellissima! Encore, please.”
On Twitter, Vogue Runway said Paris was “saving the best for last”.
The collection was both a continuation of the style the design duo has established for the label and a new, slightly softer offer that also rejected the fast fashion trend in favour of very slow fashion. This collection was all about quality and building up the want-it factor until the moment, months from now, when the clothes drop in-store.
“Everybody is speaking about ‘see and buy,’” Chiuri told WWD backstage. “We think that to be in the moment is more important.”
The collection itself was ballet-inspired, drawing its theme from traditional and modern dance and the critics agreed it was less formally “regal” than usual.
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