Jan 17, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
Florence: As guest designers for the 81st edition of the Pitti Uomo trade show, creative directors (and Valentino Garavani’s former right hands) Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli brought the storied brand back to its illustrious beginnings. Mr. Valentino first showed his collection at the Pitti Palace 50 years ago, and the current designers brought the house’s history of sartorial excellence forward with luxurious fabrics and evolved silhouettes. Held at the Baroque Palazzo Corsini overlooking the Arno river, the the collection was inspired by an eclectic mix of Tyrolean ski instructors and Italian cinema, namely Dolce Vita, set in Rome circa 1960. Staged in a series of rooms with frescoed ceilings, the backdrop was a sparkling high-tech wall of pointillist lights, which once the models appeared, projected a kind of abstract film of men filing in fashion formation. Cropped, precise, stiff, and spare, Chiuri and Piccioli kept to a dark navy blue/black and brown palette for this collection, in classic shapes that were elegant, but also young. Jackets were boxy and cropped, and the coats look almost shrunken, some in a mix of rib-textured knit and thick wools. —Michael Fisher
Color: Navy / Black / “Bitter chocolate” / Bottle green / Camel / Charcoal
Key Items: Boxy trench coat / Border stripe jackets / Pieced toggle coats / Bomber jackets / V-neck sweaters / Notch lapel tuxedos / Scoop neck sweater / Cropped pea coats / Leather blazers / Capes
Materials: Melton wool / Camelhair / Glazed denim / Leather
Details + Trim: Pieced construction / Color blocking / Round shoulders / Cropped fits / “Flat” toggles and epaulets / Hidden plackets / Pressed creases on pants / Patch pockets / Exposed Zippers
Accessories + Footwear: Classic lace-up Oxfords / Leather driving gloves / Clutch bags / Slim black ties
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