Paris: When Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli first began designing for the house of Valentino, they dramatically updated the time-honored label’s look, often to the chagrin of Valentino Garavani and many of his older, loyal customers. But the new look attracted a chic, young set of followers including scenesters like Chloë Sevigny. The designers’ restless energy to create something their own was magnetic and seductive. This season, they seemed to be more comfortable referencing the house’s archives, but injected just enough edge to keep the attention of their new hip admirers. Ruffles, tiers and peplums adorned the sweet shirtdresses and skirt suits, while leather short-shorts and what looked like lacquered denim kept it young and upbeat. Though other aspects of the label may have changed, Chiuri and Piccioli made sure to uphold Valentino’s high standard of craftsmanship. Fits were impeccable, and details were of great importance; tiny flower appliqués embellished the pale pink opening look, and a lovely tulle dress was embroidered with luxe gold foil. The designers seem to have finally achieved the delicate balance of referencing the Valentino archives while also adding an edgy, modern element, and Garavani himself was pleased, saying, “That was very Valentino, with a new interpretation.”

View Collection Images

Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.