May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: Valentino designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli served up a classical inspiration for their F/W 13 collection, looking at Vemeer’s famous Girl With a Pearl Earring and funneling it onto the runway. More general, moody homages to Flemish art could also be recognized in gorgeous floral embroidery on brushed mohair princess coats, Delft china patterns and an abundance of intricate lace detailing. The label’s signature tasteful innocence was everywhere, but despite long braided hair and simple headbands, it never seemed immature. Instead, the dark allure of fairy tales like Little Red Riding Hood came to mind via hooded cape coats, subversive, faux-off-the-shoulder gowns and the mainstay of Fall—schoolgirl dresses with long sleeves and collar accents. Cropped hemlines dominated, but Valentino’s evening offering was robust too, breaking new ground with strapless column jumpsuits and scallop edge columns, looks which were pure but not plain. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Column / Tulip / A-line / Fitted / Tapered / Hourglass
Color: Black / White / Royal blue / Crimson / Stormy blues / Mint / Baby blue / Putty
Key Items: Wool schoolgirl dresses / A-line princess coats / Capes / Angora sweater dresses with lace insets / Sheer organza blouses / Tapered high waist trousers / Faux-off-the-shoulder dresses & gowns / Hooded coats / Lace evening gowns
Materials: Lightweight wool / Fur / Brushed mohair / Satin / Net / Sheer organza / Silk jacquard / Sturdy leathers / Sequined mesh / Lace
Print + Pattern: Dutch florals / Delft pottery patterns / Dots
Details + Trim: Lace collars, cuffs and bibs / Fur collars / Embroidered leather collars / Scalloped hems / Hoods / Diagonal cut three-quarter sleeves / Beading / Inverse pleats / Knife pleats / Sheer insets / Contrast linings / Sequins
Accessories + Footwear: T-strap patent leather heels / Slim headbands / Pearl embellished minaudière / Accordion clutches & shoulder bags / Patent leather ankle boots / Oversized frame bags / Simple pearl necklaces
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