Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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New York: Pre-Fall is a season during which many designers regurgitate previous designs or focus on time-honored basics. Not so for Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli at Valentino. In the whopping 70 looks they presented, not a single one was a throwaway. While elements of the house’s heritage were not ignored – there were plenty of the flower appliqués and flounces one expects from a Valentino collection – the designers were looking forward rather than back. In an interview, Chiuri and Piccioli said that they wanted to apply “the culture of couture to all categories.” The painstaking details and elegant silhouettes seen here certainly called to mind couture, and a surfeit of capes and rounded shapes recalled the work of the great couturiers of the 50s. Lacquered leathers added a futuristic counterpoint; those shiny materials, especially when paired with girlish contrast collars, projected an alluring perversity and underscored the feeling of forward motion. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Cocoon / A-line / Constructed hourglass / Slouchy / Long + languid
Color: Black / White / Pink-infused red / Navy / Blush / Cream / Grey / Magenta / Olive
Key Items: Capes / Lacquered leather dresses / Jumpsuits / Fur coats
Materials: Lacquered leather / Firm matte suitings / Jacquard / Fine lace / Chiffon / Haircalf / Sheared fur / Shaggy fur / Bonded wool / Croc / Organza / Nylon
Print + Pattern: Romantic blurred florals / Abstract geometrics / Plaid
Details + Trim: Flower appliqués / Contrast collars / Tiers / Beading / Bow necks / Flounces / Self-belts / Quilting / Fur collars
Accessories + Footwear: Studded flat clutches / Frame bags / Knee-high boots with gold hardware / Criss-cross Mary Janes / Ankle-strap pumps / High-heeled loafers / Studded oxfords
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