Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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FADE TO BLUE
Paris: In contrast to the sweet, youthful collections they have presented in recent seasons, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli’s current couture offering was decidedly more serious, even somber. The designers pushed aside the house’s signature red tone in favor of an emotional navy blue. Modest long sleeves and high necklines were a departure from their typical feminine, flirtatious fare, but lush brocades, intricate beading and golden embroidery made the experience more sensual and regal. Lest any lifelong Valentino followers be disappointed, Chiuri and Picciolo included a handful of traditional red pieces, including a long-sleeved column dress made from duchesse satin. But they closed the show with a parade of darkly elegant black and blue gowns. Though fans of the designers’ work at Valentino may miss the more upbeat looks, this season’s serious mood felt genuine, and the results were hauntingly beautiful. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Columnar / Long + languid / Top heavy / A-line / Hourglass
Color: Black / Navy / Lemon meringue / Blush / Gold / Nude / Magenta / Valentino red
Key Items: Long-sleeved gowns / Brocade coats / Embellished jumpsuits / Sheer-opaque cape
Materials: Chiffon / Lace / Jacquard / Brocade / Silk crepe / Duchesse satin / Cashmere / Silk charmeuse
Print + Pattern: Mirror image florals with sparrows / Trees
Details + Trim: Piecing / Long sleeves / Accordion pleats / Beading / Embroidery / Jewel appliqués / Heart-shaped necklines
Accessories + Footwear: Brocade or velvet square-toe pumps
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