Paris: Fresh off the heels of a breathtaking January couture presentation, Valentino creative directors Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri have assembled a thoughtful curation of haute Cossack, without abandoning the youthfully demure aesthetic they have honed over the last three years. The show’s initial passage of black leather felt unexpected from the team that had located delicate “flou” so centrally in previous presentations. But it soon gave way to the small-scale prints and pristine whites, that channel the duo’s home turf. Their hallmark silhouette — a low empire suppression with a shirred or jumped seam — was present and accounted for in both knee-length and floor-length iterations, but so were far more pant options than usual (telling quite the thorough sportswear story). Valentino’s signature color (a rapturous shade of cardinal) was freed from its previous gown purpose to realize fresh concepts like a woven jumpsuit and a lasercut leather-lace cocktail dress. Proof positive that under its current direction, this old house has plenty of youth in it yet. —Kibwe Chase-Marshall

Silhouette: Low-empire / Lean / Maxi / Narrow / Bell

Color: Black / Navy / White / Caramel / Cardinal / Light camel / Cement / Rose

Key Items: Jumped-seam day dress / Frog closure coat / Boxy jacket / Natural-tailored pant

Materials: Leather / Silk Chiffon / Silk Organza / Silk crepe / Self-bonded silk poplin / Ponti di Roma / Lace / Treated denim / Cashmere felt coating / Wool crepe

Print + Pattern: Small-scale floral strata / Small-scale tossed floral

Details + Trim: Medallion-formation embroidery / Wool yarn crochet-stitch / Braided frog closures / Scallop edging

Accessories + Footwear: Mary Janes / Soft-structure shoulder-bag / Hard clutch / Classic envelope clutch


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