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Urban Dreamer (John Varvatos)

Milan…For the second season, New Yorker (and rock ‘n’ roll connoisseur) John Varvatos presented his namesake collection in Milan. The “urban dreamer” who he sent down the runway is meant to look ultra-modern and effortless. A plethora of lightweight fabrics and layers created an interesting contrast for what’s supposed to be “tailored” clothing. Varvatos has always done the elongated hourglass silhouette well and his spring offering was no different. The shoulder became a bit more structured and stronger than before, but it just made the suppressed waist all the more dramatic. The collection was overall grey in tone, but very pale shades of “lemon” and “tomato” made appearances in the form of anokraks and knits. Woven vests (with and without jackets) still look appropriate to the designer and he used some beautiful linen and tropical wool versions for spring. As an expert on cool looks for evening, Varvatos pushed one-button suits in darker shades. Subtle pinstripes and checks with a bit of shiny mohair gave that rocker edge he loves so much. Finally, always known for some great accessories, S/S 10 offers short boots that crumple at the ankle, desert boots that have sportier boat shoe soles and washed suede brogues without any laces. Duffel bags and messengers were built from a mix of coated canvas and rumpled calfskin detail. varvatoss10.jpg

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  • Sheer netting on knitwear really shows how transparency has moved from womenswear into menswear.

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