Under My Umbrella (Burberry Prorsum)

Milan… Perhaps also acting as a sort of metaphor for the current state of world affairs, Christopher Bailey is making sure that men are ready for whatever kind of weather S/S 10 will bring. We hope that the sun comes back out and the normal happy optimism that fashion provides will reign supreme once again. On the other hand, he also wants us to be prepared for a few more dark and rainy days in the event that things don’t work out as hoped. Set to his (now famous) soundtrack of “The Infinite Kiss” by Brett Anderson and an acoustic version of “Umbrella,” Bailey gave us a few stories to ponder. We were presented with a calm and languid collection of quilted summer jackets, subtle cargo pockets on jackets, surprising animal print shirts and mini cable knit sweaters. The first half of the show was immersed in a soothing color palette of chocolate brown, dusty sky blue and ivory. When it was time for the “rain,” Bailey sent out a colorful collection of anoraks and pea coats in wax-coated red, yellow and cobalt blue. There was linen suiting and outerwear in the event the days grows warm along with crinkled woven shirts with just the right amount of sheerness. The last group of smart tailoring included candy pastels like pink, mint green and delicate yellow mostly on crisscross-detailed knits under cotton poplin suits. Bailey claimed to have gleaned much of his inspiration from the armies of yesteryear, evident in the straps taken from vintage coats that were typically thrown over the shoulder. This came out loud and clear on sweaters, woven shirts and some of the coats. burberrys10.jpg

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