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Unconstructed Reality (Dior Homme)

Paris…For a much anticipated S/S 10 collection, Kris Van Assche set out to calm the enormous criticism that he has suffered ever since his first collection six seasons ago with . While many are certainly going to appreciate the light and airy tailoring with a much more relaxed attitude than ever before, the collection came off as a redundant attempt at calling attention to his refined point of view. Almost all of the tailored jackets were so sheer that the pockets showed up as a tonal shading. Some were sleeveless and short-sleeved, a common demonantor for the spring shows. Black, white, grey and tan were the only colors contained in the collection with nary a pop in sight. Some of the exits contained the slim woven shirts with miniscule collars that Dior Homme came to be known for under the previous designer, but by and far, skin was the most popular underpinning for the tailored clothing. Some light and silky outerwear with rolled up sleeves over jackets had an elusive “cape” identity about them and looked a bit forced compared to the same item in other collections. Hopefully a new day will dawn at Dior Homme sometime soon, one in which the glory and sexiness of the previous regime will come out to play again.

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