Twisted Tailoring at Comme des Garçons

Paris: While other designers play with traditional tailoring through the injection of active elements, Rei Kawakubo plays with shape and proportion to debunk all preconceived notions of conventional suiting. Starting with second-skin graffiti print leggings underneath bermuda suits, blazers were offset and tailored in intriguingly awkward places. These included 6DB and 3SB silhouettes with asymmetrical closures that created a twisting effect around the body. These then transitioned into well-tailored tailcoats made casual with slim hi-rise trousers cuffed at the ankle. Soon those graffiti leggings covered the entire body in ultra tight tops, tailcoats, and blazers. The all-over print became one piece of art not letting the audience know where one item ended and another began. This illustrative scribble print that appeared in playful colours was soon contrasted against leather suiting and faux fur leopard and zebra print button-down shirts. Blazers also sported spliced effects that gave the appearance of fabric pieced together to form the garment. The collection ended with five white looks that featured stand-out outerwear pieces like a lapel-less overcoat, belted DB trench, and tailored motorcycle jacket with monochrome leopard sleeves. – Matt Feniger

Theme: Twisted Tailoring

Key Items: re-proportioned blazers / single breasted tailcoats / hi-rise ankle cropped and cuffed trousers / graffiti print leggings / all-over scribble print suits / 6DB pieced pinstripe blazer / leather bermuda shorts / faux fur leopard and zebra print shirts / boxy 6Db and 3SB bermuda suits / spliced blazers / tapered ankle cropped trousers / lapel-less overcoat / belated trench coat / fitted motorcycle jacket

Colour: black / white / icy blue / light grey / slate blue / pink / purple

Materials + Trim: faux fur / wool / leather / cotton / fine silk

Print + Pattern: illustrative graffiti and scribbles / leopard / zebra

Accessories + Footwear: lampshade hats / bow ties / slip-on brogues with thick elastic band / redesigned brogues with offset laces

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