May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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NEW YORK…With new backing courtesy of the house of Valentino, Proenza Schouler are now in a position to make two collections, one that is more conceptual and shows a certain savoir-fair, and another more commercial for the showroom. The editorially savvy collection that this precocious duo showed this week proved a maturity beyond their years. it was a jewel toned feast for the eyes, with a series of shift dresses in ruffled silk twill worn with contrast-color stockings and sexy suede pumps. Accordion pleats and folds, sequined cocktail dresses and super slouchy trousers prevailed, but the true genius of the duo was revealed in the inside-out quality to the double-faced wool Melton coat and the exposed lining and seams of a silk tweed jacket, showing the true craftsmanship of their designs.
Another designer keen to explore a juxtaposition of references was Thakoon Panichgul who said, “I want to apply aggressive elements on soft, refined silhouettes.” This was a goal realized, what with his heady mix of floral, plaids & ombré, not to mention the shimmering graffiti prints that covered some of the more feminine dresses. Tailored felt Mao jackets were a not so sharp contrast next to the more outwardly girlish quilted floral coats and thirties-style dresses. The collection was more soft than tough, but there was a fine line between the two.
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