Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: With vintage hats, mysterious glasses, and an opening passage of black-and-white looks, Tsumori Chisato embraced this season’s pervasive film noir theme. Exaggerated proportions and playful prints set her interpretation apart from the others. Among the distinctive silhouettes on display were trumpet shapes and dramatically curved sleeves, and motifs included her signature dots, childlike florals, and wide stripes, in addition to cartoonish ghosts, perhaps a play on the dark themes in film noir. Also appearing in the prints department were lobsters, which recalled Elsa Schiaparelli’s famous collaboration with Salvador Dalí. They also came in the form of large jeweled appliqués that perched on the shoulders of tops and dresses. The collection ended with a caped dress covered in a brightly colored nature scene. It was a perfect representation of Chisato’s youthful exuberance, as well as her commitment to print and silhouette. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Trumpet / Rounded / Boxy / Tent / A-line / Peplum
Color: Black / White / Cream / Red / Gold / Cerulean / Magenta / Tangerine / Aqua / Mint / Royal blue / Poppy / Bottle green / Mustard / Pale yellow
Key Items: Trumpet dresses and skirts / Boxy tops / Tent-shaped coats / Printed sheaths
Materials: Velvet / Bonded wool / Matte suitings / Jacquard / Lurex yarns / Fuzzy yarns / Medium-gauge yarns / Printed silks / Taffeta / Wool twill / Felted wool / Satin / Iridescent organza / Shaggy fur
Print + Pattern: Large dots / Wide stripes / Childlike floral / Cartoonish ghosts / Lobsters / Nature scenes / Ombré / Abstract texture prints
Details + Trim: Rounded sleeves / Trumpet flounces / Quilting / Sequins / Jewels / Contrast trim / Lobster and other fabric appliqués / Peplums / Oversized or flower buttons / Attached capes / Collaging
Accessories + Footwear: Cat eye, round, and rectangular sunglasses / Vintage-inspired hats / Minaudieres / Wide belts / Leather gloves / Platform peep-toe booties / Platform ankle boots / Flat oxfords / Ankle-strap pumps
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