May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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BORROWED FROM THE BOYS
Milan: Designer Umit Benan is relatively new at Trussardi (this is just his fourth collection for the label), but his strong roots in menswear have given his offerings an androgynous edge that has brought new life to the venerable house. This season, Benan borrowed a windowpane pattern from menswear, using it for slouchy flannel trousers and a silky jumpsuit, among other items. Leopard-printed ponyskin separates offered a feisty feminine counterbalance. Coats were a highlight, often appearing in broad-shouldered, oversized proportions, yet another reference to menswear. Originally a maker of gloves, Trussardi has had a long relationship with leather, and Benan showcased the material in this collection. Pantsuits, boxy tops, coats, dresses, and even a pleated skirt were all made from the luxurious leather with a subtle sheen and papery texture. The sumptuous materials and the tomboyish references resulted in many desirable pieces. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Broad-shouldered / Oversized / Boxy / Columnar / A-line
Color: Navy / Black / Caramel / Khaki / Cream / Beige / Chocolate brown
Key Items: Oversized coats / Boxy leather tops / Windowpane trousers / Leopard separates
Materials: Papery leather / Menswear suitings / Heavy wool / Ponyskin / Exotic pelts / Fluid silks
Print + Pattern: Windowpane checks / Leopard motifs
Details + Trim: Double-breasted closures / Zippers / Pleats / Contrast lapels / Gathering
Accessories + Footwear: Circular wire and plastic frame sunglasses / Medium-width leather belts / Boxy frame bags / Leather totes / Haircalf knee-high boots / Flat slippers / Haircalf ankle boots
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