Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Milan: For his third season at Trussardi, Umit Benan imagined a New York woman with an elegant uptown home near Central Park. With conservative pantsuits, pleated skirts, and A-line dresses, the clothes he presented mostly fit the bill. Benan began as a menswear designer, so it’s no surprise that tailoring was precise and prevalent. But proportion and details dragged the collection down. Elongated jackets paired with wide-leg pants looked off, as did a pieced asymmetrical trench. Benan added unnecessary giant flap pockets to tops, and odd panels of fabric extended from the waistbands of shorts and dresses. Some of the simpler, fluid dresses were nice, in an innocuous way, but overall, the collection was a misstep. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Long and lean / A-line / Top-heavy
Color: Buttercream / Ivory / Cinnamon / Navy / Black / Pale grey
Key Items: Tailored pantsuits / Pieced snakeskin jacket / Fluid dresses / Stovepipe pants
Materials: Slick suitings / Crisp cotton / Fluid silks / Leather / Snakeskin / Canvas / Croc
Print + Pattern: Overlapping grey-scale flowers
Details + Trim: Oversized flap pockets / Attached fabric panels / Piecing / Cross-over waistbands
Accessories + Footwear: Vintage-inspired hats / Mirrored sunglasses / Metallic skinny belts / Frame bags / Boxy doctor bags / Handheld suitcases / Peep-toe mules / Flat oxfords / Pieced platform oxfords / Platform lace-up sandals
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