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Transparent World (Calvin Klein Collection)

Milan…Designer Italo Zucchelli told the press pre-show that the world needs a lot of transparency going forward. With a nod to futurism, the clothes that he used to prove his point were innovative and thought provoking. Tone-on-tone suits and underpinnings looked as modern as one would expect from the quintessential brand of minimalism. Black, grey and putty felt as cold as the room in which the show took place. An interesting combination of a black shirt and tie under a sandy-colored suit seemed very new. Transparent parkas, blazers and bombers were layered over shiny active shorts, some with pleats. The dramatic holes in the sleeveless knits glanced back to the ’80s while speeding into the future, quite a feat for Zucchelli (to make you think back and look forward at once). Honeycomb texture appeared on many of the cardigans and jackets, almost as a very luxe kind of armor. Just as the audience got used to a subdued color palette of neutrals, out popped a cerulean blue with a matching shirt and tie. This shock factor has become quite the tradition for Calvin Klein Collection shows, especially after last spring’s neon versions. Preceding looks included the combination of cerulean with fire orange. A final grouping of suits were made of shiny tonic, a technical, almost sci-fi material that harkens back to classic retro movies of yesteryear (again, while still looking like the future).

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