Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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MORE THAN MILITARY
New York: Sometimes the simplest things open the door to the most interesting ideas. For Pre-Fall, Tory Burch said that she had been inspired by a military jacket that had been her mother’s. With a statement like that, one would typically expect a hard-edged collection filled with epaulets and flap pockets, but Burch’s offering went far beyond stereotypical military fare and featured elegant embellishments and ladylike silhouettes. The military inspirations appeared in a subtle way, with double-breasted coats and olive green tones. The ethnic influences that have popped up in her previous collections returned here, breaking up the military looks with intricate beading and embroidery that may have been borrowed from Southeast Asian garments. Knits featuring a geometric intarsia pattern were a highlight, and midi-length pencil skirts and prim suits are sure appeal to Burch’s sophisticated clientele. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Long and lean / Cylindrical / A-line
Color: Olive / Warm beige / White / Watery blue / Navy / Cinnamon / Poppy / Silvery blue / Winter white
Key Items: Double-breasted coats / Intarsia knits / Midi pencil skirts / Tweed skirt suit
Materials: Felted wool / Crisp silks / Tweed / Fine-gauge yarns / Leather / Jacquard / Ribbed silk
Print + Pattern: Stripes / Geometrics / Tonal floral
Details + Trim: Embroidery / Beading / Fringe / Double-breasted closures / Fur collars / Contrast trim / Sequins
Accessories + Footwear: Jeweled necklaces / Boxy top-handle bags / Beaded and tasseled cross-body bags / Suede cross-body bags / Opaque tights / Pointy-toe pumps / Ankle boots
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