Sep 26, 2019 | By Jane Boddy
Aug 03, 2019
A visit to Medellin’s Colombiamoda fashion week offered a wealth of inspiration via catwalk shows from heavy-hitters including Johanna Ortiz and Renata Lozano, to retail excursions in world-class shopping neighbourhoods such as El Poblado. After a week immersed in the culture, the trends coming down the runways for the S/S 20 shows became clear. Here’s a few major things to have on your radar for next year, along with who is doing them best.
Although this is a colour call-out, the word terracotta has come into play in more ways than one this season. Local designer of note Alado coined its upcoming S/S 20 collection Terra-cotta, paying homage to the craftsmanship of pottery. Elsewhere this colour could be found on frilly dresses at Alexandra Bueno, across tailoring at Pink Filosofy and Renata Lozano, and utility jumpsuits at MEV.
The penchant for suiting and tailored looks is spanning the globe, with Colombian iterations opting for lightweight materials, voluminous trousers and splashes of colour and print. Lugó Lugó was a prime example for menswear, tapping into the Jungle Trekker themes called out as a key global trend for S/S 20, while Guio di Colombia stunned with their tunic proportions, layered sheer shirts and bold use of colour. Within womenswear, Pink Filosofy nailed the tailored look, replete with matching belt-bags to lend a functional feel.
The Bold Shoulder
Perhaps the most ubiquitous trend, and one that is now synonymous with Colombian design, the puffed sleeve was ever-more dramatic for S/S 20. Johanna Ortiz has become well known for this aesthetic, joined by fun and fanciful designs from Alexandra Bueno, Glory Ang, Andrés Pajón, Andrés Otálora and Alado.
The Real Artisan Touch
Core to many of the collections at Colombiamoda, collaborations with regional artisans are an important consideration in this industry. Partnerships between supermarket fashion brand Arkitect and Maestros Ancestrales sent beautiful beaded accessories down the catwalks, handcrafted by indigenous artisans. Similarly, local design duo Alado were inspired by the regional craft of clay and porcelain pottery, informing much of their statement earrings and jewellery.
Offering a key counter to the bevy of feminine dresses that were served up, functional utility looks came to the fore in a cohesive array of streamlined jumpsuits, utility vests and patch-pocket jackets. Khaki, terracotta, army green and grey tones appeared at MEV and Pink Filosofy. While many opted for monochromatic colour in cotton and linen, more youthful utility looks were noted as standout pieces from Miguemo.
A trend that appeared for both men’s and women’s collections, silky piped pyjama pants, robes, slips and tunic sets were noted across key designers from La Petite Mort to Andrés Otálora and Lugó Lugó. The puff-sleeved peignoir appeared more than once, offering a fresh layering piece that can achieve the bold-shoulder look with more versatility – signalling a key item to watch within the vacation capsule space.
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