From Frankenstein patchwork at Assembly to bright retro casts at Jil Sander, WGSN Denim Editor Samuel Trotman runs down the standout looks from the New York shows
New York kicked off the Spring/Summer 2016 shows with one of the biggest schedules to date. As always the city provided a wealth of denim on the runways with many big US designer names flashing their style credentials and giving their own spin on the trusty twill. Here, we present our edit of the best looks to hit the runways:
1. Marc Jacobs
More like a movie premiere rather than a fashion show, Marc Jacobs presented his Spring show complete with red carpet and popcorn handed out by bellboys. The clothes (and denim) were just as epic, with a collection that celebrated everything Americana with Old Glory flag patchworks, bleached out denims and 1950s-style imagery that came in the form of cinema audiences wearing 3D glasses laser laundered onto raw denims.
2. Diesel Black Gold
You can always rely on premium arm of the Italian denim giants to deliver a selection of innovative laundry and finishes among its RTW collection each season and Spring proved no different. These stunning ultra wide-fit boyfriend with two-tone matte metallic coating were one of the best to hit the catwalk.
3. Phillip Lim
Among the beautiful rendition of blooms that took centre stage at Lim’s Spring show, the designer slipped in a number of directional denims in the form of asymmetric cuts and pinstripe patterns that were patched and spliced together in unaligned formation – a very feminine yet contemporary Lim collection.
4. Jil Sander Navy
Known for her quiet, considered designs, Jil Sander applied her accessible minimal look to her diffusion line updating wardrobe classics like the denim trucker and pencil skirt in super clean raw denims and bright retro casts.
5. Karen Walker
Always one to deliver when it comes to denim, Karen Walker gave her usual contemporary spin to a range of 1970s silhouettes, updating seasonal favourites like coveralls, flares and high-waisted fits in a range of glossy raws and monochrome enzyme washes.
6. Tommy Hilfiger
The NYC mainstay focused on preppy looks for the here and now, giving a nostalgic take on family holidays in the 1970s. The collection mainly drew inspiration from the Caribbean and Jamaica in particular with bold Rasta summer stripes, vibrant embroidered accents on sky blue denims and military jackets updated in ice cream tones.
7. Derek Lam
Derek Lam continues his penchant for blue everything with his Spring offering – a palette of clinical indigo shades in equally sharp cuts.
8. Alexander Wang
With Wang splitting from Balenciaga, the New York designer suggested he wanted to focus on his eponymous brand, which meant expectations were elevated for this new collection. Denim came in many guises from slouchy and oversized silhouettes to hybrid designs like this must-have moto-mixed jacket.
9. Rachel Comey
Fast becoming New York’s go-to girl for denim Rachel Comey has built a cult following among the fashion crowd with her now famous culotte jeans with the indigo shadow hem. For Spring she continues to experiment with equally commercially viable styles like these boyfriend fits with asymmetric fold and mac belt buckle fastening.
Greg Armas’ spring outing for Assembly was an “examination of history and the process of time,” according to his show notes. The denim came with a lived in quality with sure-to-be-hits like this Frankenstein patchwork shift dress in a range of all-American blues.
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