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Toni Maticevski

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BALLROOM BLITZ

New York: Maticevski restrained his destructive tendencies for fall, eschewing last season’s smudged and tattered ball gowns for pristine confections that were appliquéd with sequinned flowers and sparkly leaves. The frothy gowns floated down the runway in a haze of Fortuny pleats, tulle and lettuce-edged chiffon. If last season’s look was runaway bride, then this one was ice princess, complete with pearly skin and jeweled ballerina buns. Fall also found the Australian designer experimenting with edgier separates that were more club than red carpet. The contrast was a bit jarring — sheer T-shirt dresses left nothing to the imagination, although spangled bras and peplumed belts provided some coverage. Maticevski was at his best, however, when he stayed true to his gently deconstructed, feminine aesthetic — as in his asymmetrically-draped polka-dotted gowns, and the liquid satin that was wrapped into a fresh take on the pencil skirt.

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