Tommy Hilfiger

New York: Tommy Hilfiger (and design consultant Simon Spurr) told the story of a young soldier’s military and sport lifestyle in his F/W 12 collection aptly titled “Cadet Academy.” In what was perhaps one of the most elaborate runway settings to date (impressive since the brand staged the first-ever show on the High Line elevated park last season), the Park Avenue Armory was  transformed into a garden, complete with a brick path, street lights, cafe tables, trees and ivy-covered walls. The rhythm of military marching band drums cued the first models out on the runway, and their tidy looks and severe silhouettes were a welcome contrast to the week’s other slouchy, grunge-inspired looks. The show notes called the collection “a personalized take on military precision,” and it was that utilitarian theme that ran through nearly every piece — from flag stripes at the wrist cuffs of coats to peacoats with chain embroidery. Exposed zippers emphasized the slim silhouette of tailored pants, and collars flipped up to reveal tough leather piecing. Flat-quilted surfaces were used in gloves and on the sleeves of jackets, while patches were on the inside of elbows, not the expected exterior. As the brand’s menswear continues to speak to the modern man, it’s the consistent elements of boyish rebellion, military precession and prep school classics that keep it gaining momentum.  —Michael Fisher

Silhouette: Military precession

Color: Burgundy / Navy / Olive / Tobacco / Grey / Yellow

Key Items: Pea coats / Double-breasted blazers / Fine gauge striped turtlenecks / Quilted jackets / Two-button suits / Leather moto jackets / Pieced overcoats and blazers / Trench coat / Contrast collar shirts

Materials: Bonded leather / Suede / Shearling / Cotton poplin / Wool flannel / Silk jacquards / Space-dyed wool

Details + Trim: Pieced construction / Interior elbow patches / Striped applique / Contrast tipping on lapels and pockets / Flat-quilted surfaces / Fur-trimmed collars / Adjustable D-ring tabs on pants / Hidden plackets / Peak lapels / Exposed zippers / Buckles / Military crest buttons

Accessories + Footwear: Quilted leather gloves / Collar bars / Slim satin ties / Oxblood burnished lace-up boots / Pieced cadet bags



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