Apr 13, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
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Despite some of Tokyo’s most internationally renowned labels relocating to European capitals, the city still remains a hot bed for emerging Japanese talent. Locally established brands such as Factotum, Ganryu and G.V.G.V. still continue to make waves at home and throughout the globe. These young designers are known for their progressive and unexpected takes on denim silhouettes, which keeps it a must-see for the Stylesight Denim Team. Here we take a look at some of the key denim collections to emerge out of the F/W 13 shows.
Presented under the ever-expanding Comme des Garçons group is the youth-oriented Ganryu line, a unisex street-style label designed by Fumito Ganryu. As the former patternmaker for Junya Watanabe, Ganryu has been lauded for his natural tendency towards progressive, avant-garde designs. For F/W 13, Fumito experiments with a variety of denim silhouettes and textures using plaid, wool and fabric-blocked designs over reworked truckers, voluminous gilets and drop-crotch pants. A play with disproportions shows the brands subtle sensibility using tapered hems and extreme drop-crotch shapes to reinterpret classic denim silhouettes.
Despite Mastermind JAPAN building a cult following around the globe over the past decade, 2013 sees the final collection for the brand. Founder Honma Masaaki concentrated on what he knows best — producing high-quality denims and collaborative pieces, featuring the brands iconic skull and bones logo. Items took a strong reference from American workwear with hickory stripe overalls, 50s style janitor jackets and rugged double denim looks. The brands bold stripe were placed asymmetrically on shirt sleeves and pants to give these classic items standout appeal.
Monochrome color and fabric blocking was the key styling cue at Atsushi Nakashima’s debut collection at Tokyo Fashion week, which he cited as “Neo classical” and inspired by modern architecture. Traditional trucker jacket styling was updated throughout with matte and gloss paneling in leather and cotton and the color-block theme expanded into cargo pants, dresses and shirts. The subtle use of ombre added a softness to more feminine pieces, but the overall aesthetic was a Scandinavian, hardened edge for F/W 14.
An unusual brand name, 1 Piu 1 Uguale 3 was spawned from the design team behind Ekeemu. The much anticipated debut of this new brand was fueled with a smokey start to the show and top Japanese actor, Jun Murakami opening the runway. The significant trend of boro patched denim was tapped, as well as a strong punk aesthetic, experimenting with safety pinned and studded jackets and jeans. Layered leathers and denim vests created the backbone of the collection, but intricately studded and pain splattered jeans stood out as the show pieces.
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