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Tim Van Steenbergen

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DISHEVELED DAMES

Paris: Belgian designer Tim Van Steenbergen continued last season’s meditation on the dress code of the mid-century workplace, taking it even further from its ladylike origin and into edgier, darker terrain. Suiting fabrics coated with leather-like glazes and casual cottons hammered with crinkled textures were freely draped and pinned into disheveled sheaths and suits; makeshift string belts subtly defined an hourglass silhouette. The retro remix aesthetic was also applied to weekend wear in the form of draped swimsuit-like mini dresses, while full-skirted frocks retained just enough glamour for after-five functions. The collection of mostly day and cocktail dresses was not as strong or varied as the label’s F/W 10 offerings, but the moody textures and painterly prints on display hinted at a compelling new direction for the talented designer.

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