Tim Coppens

New York:
For his S/S 2012 collection, designer Tim Coppens explicitly drew upon French film Un Prophète that tells the violent tale of an intelligent French-Maghreb youth whose hybrid identity relegates him to a violent street life. Thematic hybridization ran through the entire collection, which boasted unique items like a varsity jacket with leather sleeves and a Persian Farahan carpet body, and a lamb suede bomber jacket featuring neoprene cuffs. Coppens’ lack of accessories and relatively sedate color palette allowed his emphasis on cut and fabrics to shine, as he showed band-collar cotton tunics with elasticated cuffs in white, cotton twill parkas in khaki or royal blue, and a linen-leather bomber jacket in black. Military, athletic, and Arab references peppered this collection, as it spoke to the intersection and entangling of these subjects in modern urban life. —Andrew Luecke

Silhouette: Bottom heavy (voluminous pants with fitted jackets)

Color: Khaki / Umber / Black / Royal teal / Navy blue / Royal blue / White

Key Items: Farahan varsity jacket / Suede bomber jacket / Billowing cotton trouser / Field coat / Cotton chino / Nylon tab shorts

Materials: Mercerized cotton / Nylon / Lamb leather / Suede / Linen / Neoprene

Print + Pattern: Farahan pattern

Details + Trim: Neoprene jacket cuffs / Padded quilting / Adjustable trouser cuffs / Suede or leather shoulder patches / Band collar

Accessories + Footwear: Low quarter Naval dress shoes in white or black

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