New York: Tibi’s Amy Smilovic is an expert at turning out streamlined sportswear rooted in the 90s but minus any puzzling intellectual trickery, a design tactic driving her recent success at retail. F/W 13 found the collection moving in an urban direction, highlighting athletic, functional outerwear pieces with quilted detailing, neoprene crewneck tops, and sculptural tunic dresses. Smilovic’s round shoulders and balloon sleeves created trend-conscious volume on top, but bottoms were mostly skinny and fitted, including must-have leather legging pants and asymmetrical wrap pencil skirts. Graphic patterns and textural accents took the presentation beyond run-of-the-mill sporty minimalism, while baggy shorts and knit hoods were a welcome directional risk.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Skinny / Round shouldered / Asymmetric

Color: Black / White / Cobalt / Olive / Emerald / Vibrant mint / Jersey grey

Key Items: Boxy t-shirts / Leather shorts / Sporty snap-front jackets / Crewneck sweatshirts / Slim leather trousers / Quilted vests / Wrap skirts / Intarsia knits / Quilted cape jackets / Turtlenecks / Fine gauge hoodies / Paneled track pants

Materials: Shearling / Neoprene / Leather / Compact wool / Chunky knits / Jersey

Print + Pattern: Patchworking / Dots / Blurred checks / Arrow graphics / Deconstructed stripes / Cable knit patterns / Graphic leopard spots

Details + Trim: Quilting / Shearling linings / Zippered pockets / Balloon sleeves / Sheer illusion hems / Hoods

Accessories + Footwear: Chunky knit hoods & dickies / Sturdy minimalist leather sandals / Leather bibs / Pointy ankle boots / Leather thigh-high boots


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