Jun 11, 2018 | By Nick Paget
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Mar 07, 2015
Paris: Haider Ackerman’s Autumn/Winter collection moved away from his usual languid tailoring and instead, presented a lean multi-layered graphic lineup of streetwise pieces. There was still the clever artistry omnipresent within the styling of the silhouettes – from leather pleated skirts, pieced, wrapped and cut asymmetrically that worked with cropped blouson jackets, skinny leather leggings and loosely tied blouses that bore a slight punk-like appeal to the cleverly worked juxtaposition of prints – checkerboards patterns, animal prints, zigzagging tweeds and small masculine checks – melded together in coats and trousers, without jarring the visual appeal. Ackermann said he thought about “the failures of life” when he began designing this collection “When you have to repair, stitch, you take old tweeds and do a patchwork.” Consequently, oversized whipstitching held materials together, loosely stitched over the waistbands of tailored trousers and repeated in the raw cut frills decorating feminine blouses, while a jumpsuit encapsulated the sleek and elegant proportions expected from Ackerman. Accentuated shoulders pervaded throughout, providing elegant proportions in fluid military-esque coats and ‘kimono’ styled jackets. – Lizzy Bowring
Theme: Masculine/feminine with a dash of Japanese street
Key Items: Cropped jackets / Cropped cigarette pants / Leather leggings / Tailored kimono style coats / Drop waist long pleated skirts / Singlet / Duster coats / Tunic / All-in-one / Turtleneck / Ruffled blouse / Masculine overcoat
Colour: Black / Navy / Purple / Pale salmon
Materials and Trims: Tweed / Silk satin / Wool / Silk georgette / Boucle with lurex threads
Print and Pattern: Animal / Checkerboard / Polka dots
Footwear and Accessories: Long gloves / Wide belts / Neck ties / Ankle boots
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