May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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London: Young gun Thomas Tait appeared to have raided the closet of a teenage motocross rider and repurposed the garments with a Céline-like sense of luxury and elegance. What began as simple, somewhat drab tracksuits built to a crescendo of multi-layered, multi-functional sporty sophistication. Tait pedals a brand of what some might call ugly or awkward-chic, yet the masterfulness of his cuts and his innovative way with fabric renders his work engaging, covetable even. Here, traditional athletic elements—the tracksuit, the leotard, the drawstring anorak, the ski jacket—are beautifully collaged and subtly interspersed with high-fashion pieces like seamless leather cocoon coats, milky PVC pants and leather-quilted sweaters. Tait is onto something special here, somewhere between Nicolas Ghesquière-era Balenciaga (the motocross details, cocoon shapes and sporty-futurism) and adidas, yet the finished product exudes originality. —Natalie Shukur
Silhouette: Utility / Athletic / Functional / Layered
Color: Shades of gray—from ice to slate to graphite / Navy / Black / Traffic cone orange / Acid green / White
Key Items: The tracksuit / Leggings / Zip-through dresses / Ski jackets and suits / Anoraks / Cocoon jackets and coats / Hoodies / Quilted sweaters / Leather jackets / Leotards / Motocross jackets
Materials: Nylon / Jersey / Leather / PVC / Parachute silk
Print + Pattern: Color-blocking / Stripes
Details + Trim: Drop shoulders / Zippers / Quilting / Drawstrings / Toggles
Accessories + Footwear: Flat functional slides / Ankle boots / Athletic socks
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