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Thom Browne

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CASTAWAY

Thom Browne certainly always takes us on a wild adventure, and for S/S 10, it felt like a quick tour to a deserted island. The happily warped-nautical influence originated in Browne’s mind as a kind of Robinson Crusoe eclectic. The bunny rabbit Fair Isle pattern from F/W 09 was changed to a palm tree and sword fish motif, adorning everything from suits and shorts to cardigans and parkas. “Lifesaver yellow” slickers and life preservers became the outerwear du jour, and the designer’s evolution of masculine androgyny came in the form of neoprene skirt suits. While still cropped more than most of his counterparts, the silhouette for spring definitely loosened up a bit, becoming more accessible than ever before. Browne’s collections are among the most directional of New York Fashion Week, but he continues to lead the way in evolving accepted concepts of what it means to dress as a man — something certainly more important than the actual clothes themselves.

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