Thom Browne, Spring/Summer 2016: Meticulously precise with Asian art motifs
By Lizzy Bowring

The designer showcased the dream school uniform – and you’ll be in awe no matter if you’re in school or not. WGSN Catwalks Director Lizzy Bowring on her latest NYFW pick

Sep 15, 2015

Thom Brown

New York: Thom Browne is always the master of surprise, therefore it was not out of character for the designer to present to his guests, yet another visually ingenious treat. His audience was ushered in to the Chelsea gallery, which had been converted in to a one-room schoolhouse, complete with rows of chairs, and a black notebook precisely placed on each one.

Then, the show began. Each model, resplendent with vertical pigtails and straw boaters and dressed as students, wore a pleated skirt and blazer – but that was just the groundwork. Browne, known for his intricate detailing and masterful craftsmanship in tailoring, created precise ‘uniforms’ with different patterns embroidered on both skirts and jackets, and worn over long shirts. Decorative motifs were taken from Asian art such as chrysanthemums carefully embroidered on to pinstripes.

A geisha portrait placed on a pink and grey silk intarsia while exquisite tailored fabrics were rendered in delicate hues of grey, pink, and blue, contrasting against the black and white pieces that formed the final vignette. This school would not tolerate a hair out of place and so it was yet another meticulous collection from Thom Browne.

Theme: The Thom Browne School

Key Items: Box pleated skirts, suit jackets, masculine coats, oversized long shirts, blazers.

Colour: Grey, black, pink, pale blue, mint green, lavender.

Print and Pattern: Asian art motifs, pinstripes, chrysanthemums, gingham, geisha portrait.

Trims and Materials: Silk intarsia, fur, satin, menswear tailoring

Footwear and Accessories: Straw boaters, graphic fish bags, ankle length lace up boots, neckties.

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