May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: For his first Cruise/Resort collection, Thom Browne played with the classic notion of resort wear. Always the provocateur, Browne riffed on the traditional, preppy whale motif, ubiquitous in posh vacation spots like Martha’s Vineyard, by including a version depicting the whale’s bones. He also took a swing at madras, layering different colorways for a single look, or mixing it with stripes and other motifs. Scallop-hemmed underlayers seemed to evoke waves in the ocean. Though the patterns were often tongue-in-cheek, the clothes themselves demonstrated Browne’s serious tailoring skills. The shrunken jackets and cropped pants for which he is known were in heavy rotation. Wearable straight skirts, silk blouses and shirtdresses were other winning separates. Double collars, slouchy plaid socks, giant floppy hats and outsized, Klaus Nomi-esque lapels were among the offbeat details that provided the requisite amount of quirk for a proper Thom Browne collection. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Shrunken / Wide-shouldered / Hourglass / Fit-and-flare
Color: Kelly green / Goldenrod / Sky blue / Navy / Burgundy / Brick red / Pale pink / Black / White / Cream
Key Items: Shrunken jackets / Cropped pants / Madras separates / Pleated skirts
Materials: Cotton jacquard / CDC / Embroidered organza / Tweed / Cotton suitings / Mesh / Organza / Cotton shirtings
Print + Pattern: Whales / Whale bones / Madras / Flowers / Variegated stripes / Plaid
Details + Trim: Double collars / Scalloped hems / Layering / Oversized lapels / Accordion pleats / Inverted pleats / Peplums / Self-belts
Accessories + Footwear: Extra-large floppy hats / Large plastic frame sunglasses / Braided chokers and matching bracelets / Printed structured bags / Leather satchels / Printed scarves / Plaid slouchy socks / Printed pumps
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