May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: A fictional tale of “girls who died for fashion” inspired Thom Browne’s f/w 12 collection, though the looks on display were anything but lifeless. Much to the contrary, they conveyed an otherworldly grandeur even when exhibiting the clergical austerity so fascinating to Browne. Browne stayed true to the signatures of his aesthetic in regard to fabric story and color palette making it that much more evident that extreme tailoring was this season’s mission. Among the interpretations of his parochial blazers, and cardigans alternated far more esoteric fare, successfully accomplishing visually arresting feats of the imagination. These often engaged anatomy exaggerated via protruding, pyramid-shaped forms mounted symmetrically to garments. The resulting looks at once evoked dinosaurs, faceted stones, gargoyles and cathedral spires. –Kibwe Chase-Marshall
Silhouette: Cocoon / Egg / Stacked / Slim / Linear / Wasp-waist / Strong Shoulder / Fit and Flare
Color: Slate, Ivory, Black, Walnut, Reid, Navy, Silver
Key Items: Egg shaped Coat / Sloped-shoulder jacket / Slim cropped pant / Coating-weight dress
Materials: Cashmere-wool coating / Camelhair coating / Wool-flannel suiting / Lurex-woven twill brocade / Sable fur / Textured boucle
Print + Pattern: Framed-Diamond check / Mitered stripes / 2-tone blanket plaid
Details + Trim: Functional Shank button / Americana grosgrain ribbon / Rigid armature / Black seam-taping /
Accessories + Footwear: Organza-covered pump / Stretch driving-glove / Fox-form muffler / Lofted organza veil / Black hosiery
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