Thom Browne



New York: After taking a two-season break from the opulent runway presentations for which he is known, Thom Browne was up to his usual theatrical tricks for F/W 10, reflecting a recent investment from the Cross Company of Japan. The show was held in several salons at the Park Avenue Armory, and the grand setting contributed to the collection’s change in course for the season. Known for his razor-thin and cropped silhouettes, Browne decided to change it up a bit with stretched and oversized sweaters, pants and outerwear. The aprés ski theme become quickly clear with embroidered snowflakes on flannel suits, red, white and blue puffer stripes on activewear and fur trim on many of the looks. Never one to shy away from irony, the designer made sure to place his massive monogram on many of the pieces, as well as to embellish some of the outerwear with chunky plastic zippers. Some of the most wearable items included wool duffel coats with braided toggles and a slightly elongated version of a traditional varsity jacket. As always, the accessories stood on their own, with duvet scarves, Fair Isle motifs on everything, opera slippers trimmed in grosgrain and plenty of argyle socks. The playful innocence of it all helped remind show-goers of what’s important when viewing a Thom Browne collection — the directional shapes and over-the-top trims always stick out, but one must not forget the luxurious classics that remain underneath all the excess.

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