May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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A QUEEN IN MAD HATTER’S CLOTHING
New York: Fantastical and quirky don’t even begin to describe Thom Browne, one of the few American designers who truly inhabits his own wacky universe. But despite his performance art runway shows, Browne is finally enjoying mainstream recognition on the heels of his Michelle Obama inauguration coup, bringing a wave of attention from an audience who may not understand his F/W 13 collection. Styled like Helena Bonham Carter in a Tim Burton daydream, the shoulders a wide caricature and hosiery embellished with long stemmed rose appliqué. Flattened silhouettes were straight out of Alice in Wonderland, starring the Queen of Hearts dressed up in the Mad Hatter’s clothes, i.e. menswear jackets in checks and stripes, oversized neckties and boxy cropped trousers. Over-the-top as it was, there was something captivating in Browne’s Elizabethan Fall silhouettes rendered in boardroom jacquards, an hourglass vision invading a man’s world.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Hourglass / Full / Extreme square / Nipped waist
Color: Dove grey / Metallic gunmetal / Black / White / Cherry red / Dusty lavender
Key Items: Square menswear blazers / Full midi-skirts / Wide cropped trousers / Fur capelets / Molded hourglass dresses / Fur trim overcoats / Lace embellished wool skirts
Materials: Gabardine / Satin / Fur / Donegal tweed / Silk jacquard / Chantilly lace / Wool
Print + Pattern: Dots / Floral motifs / Checks / Stripes / Checkerboard / Oversized Prince of Wales check / Gingham
Details + Trim: Appliqué / Pleating / Fur trim / Ruffles / Gathering / Fur collars / Peplums / Exaggerated collars / Origami folds
Accessories + Footwear: Embellished hosiery / Ladylike handbags / Oversized ties / Dainty high heel lace-ups / High heeled court shoes
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