May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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KEEPING IT REAL
New York: From his groundbreaking shrunken menswear collections to the dramatic egg shapes he has presented for women’s, Thom Browne is known for his directional work. Though many of his designs have made their way into the real world, numerous others were fated to remain inspirational showpieces. But for his current Pre-Fall collection, Browne offered his most wearable women’s collection yet, while still remaining true to his avant garde aesthetic. The sculptural shapes returned, but they were of the more approachable sort. There was even a cocoon shape or two, but they were rendered in a subtle way. Perhaps a nod to his beginnings in menswear, Browne worked with a variety of traditional suitings in patterns, including Prince of Wales, houndstooth, checks, and a variety of plaids. But kicky pleats, drawn-in waists, beading, and fur collars made it obvious these clothes were for the girls. These garments pushed boundaries while remaining grounded in the real world, and that made for a strong, salable offering.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Bell-shaped / Fit-and-flare / A-line / Cocoon / Hourglass / Shrunken
Color: Black / White / Navy / Anthracite / Pale grey / Deep red / Dusty blue
Key Items: Fit-and-flare dresses / Shrunken blazers / Fur-lapel coats / Full skirts
Materials: Menswear suitings / Shaggy fur / Rustic tweed / Crisp cotton shirtings / Heavy felted wool / Tie-inspired silk jacquards / Chunky wool yarns / Nylon
Print + Pattern: Houndstooth / Prince of Wales / Windowpane / Checks / Classic plaids / Tie-inspired geometrics / Pen-drawn florals on a houndstooth background
Details + Trim: Contrast trim / Beading / Fur lapels and cuffs / Pleats / Dimensional pockets / Feathers
Accessories + Footwear: Striped ties / Metal clasp clutches / Doctor bags / Opaque tights / Mary Janes / Flat oxfords
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