Thom Browne

New York: 1927 science fiction film Metropolis met 60s Hitchcock heroine at Thom Browne’s Spring 2013 show. Constructivist ballerinas bordered the room, spinning atop hypnosis wheels to spooky music (by composer Krzysztof Penderecki). Browne noted Bauhaus artist Oskar Schlemmer as an influence, which was felt in the models’ mechanized movements and the hair-dryer-helmet headgear. Shapes were sculpted, rounded and sometimes multilayered in dense fabrics that ranged from classic black-and-white plaids and color-soaked madras mayhem to lace-like jacquards and moirés. Motifs included whimsical seahorses and whales, and embellishments like appliqué flowers and beaded braiding brought a cuckoo couture sensibility to beautifully tailored sportswear. – Sharon Graubard

Silhouette: Structured / Ovoid / Layered

Color: Black / White / Gray / Beige / Blush / Blue / Multicolored

Key Items: Patch pocket jackets / Layered dresses and skirts / Trumpet skirts / Pegged skirts

Materials: Rounded, double-faced blends / Novelty silk-blend suitings / Lace-like jacquards / Moiré / Shiny textural jacquards / Braided constructions

Print + Pattern: Plaids / Checks / Lace motifs / Whale and seahorse motifs / Laser cut patterning

Details + Trim: Floral and seahorse appliqués / Beaded braid trim / Pearl encrustations / Colorful fringe-like baubles / Scalloped edges

Accessories + Footwear: Striped tights / Mary Jane’s / Faux bun “hats” / Bright solid and multicolored bags / Lace-like cuffs / Little boy neckties


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