Thom Browne

Paris: Thom Browne’s gender-bending S/S 12 collection was full of phantasmagorical man flappers and pasha businessmen straight from the fever dream of Colidge’s “Kubla Khan.” The designer cut, chopped, stretched and reconfigured striped suits in a number of ways; while some jackets were given cartoonishly angular, boxy or puffed shoulders, others lacked sleeves at all, and a few were offered in overcoat lengths. Most suiting was styled with distinctly feminine items, like tiered skirts or long chains of pearls with tufted amulets that nearly touched the ground. Pinstriped capes – some sheer – were thrown over several ensembles, conjuring Highland Scotland’s hill tribes. Nearly every piece bore fringe, and some garments were entirely made of the stuff; a silver allover-fringed suit was paired with a gossamer overcoat, while a fringe-covered tux was styled with a pumpkin cummerbund. Determined to play with all aspects of masculinity, Browne included a number of traditional baseball jackets and hooded sailing styles, perhaps hinting that the true values of manliness are found in leisure and play. —Andrew Luecke

Color: Scarlet / Bone / Black / Silver / White / Racing red / Granite / Pumpkin / Sand

Key Items: Boating blazer / Pinstriped suit / Cropped trouser / High-waisted short / Kilt / Overcoat / Trench

Materials: Seersucker / Silk / Wool suitings / Patent leather / Satin / Twill

Print + Pattern: Nautical stripes / Traditional suiting patterns / Red poppy print / Tartan and windowpane plaids / Houndstooth

Details + Trim: Sequins / Fringe / Piping / Lace-up closures

Accessories + Footwear: Pearl jewelry / Fringed scarves / Cloche hats / Suede oxfords / White athletic socks with red, white, and blue garters / Round sunglasses / Desert boots

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