Thierry Mugler

Paris: Beginning with a group of sterile, cleanly cut coats and suiting, Nicola Formichetti’s latest for Mugler quickly transitioned into more dramatic fare; voluminous patterned capes, shiny layered brocade suiting, cropped leather trenches, cracked patent leather vests. Despite the theatrics, the collection was almost restrained for such an avant-garde label and came through with wearable burgundy track pants, molded bomber jackets, and neat collarless shirting, a uniform resulting from Formichetti’s research into military garb. The silhouettes were tailored for a trim platoon, but modern detailing stood in for military embellishment, the designer choosing slim tuxedo lapels, patent leather trim and tonal zippers in place of epaulets and medals.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Lean / Relaxed

Color: Black / White / Oxblood / Steel grey / Navy / Sage / Burgundy

Key Items: Relaxed trousers / Elongated suit jackets / Molded overcoats / Collarless silk shirts / Cape coats / Molded bomber jackets / Satin track pants / Small collar cotton button downs / Tuxedo jackets / Cracked patent leather vests / Leather leggings

Materials: Silk / Satin / Wool / Cotton / Cashmere knits / Brocade / Leather

Print + Pattern: Geometric repeats / Abstract feathers

Details + Trim: Skinny lapels / Mandarin collars / Zippers / Patent leather trim / Snaps

Accessories + Footwear: Cummerbunds / Polished leather oxfords / Angular sunglasses / Silk ties

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