Thierry Mugler

Paris: Futuristic but pointedly organic, Nicola Formichetti’s second collection for Theirry Mugler was as understated as a both the label and the designer might get. Largely leaving darker colors alone, Spring focused on skin-tone nudes, white and emerald, using shimmering green rhinestones to reference vines more literally articulated elsewhere via illustrated graphics. Formichetti’s silhouettes also seemed to grow naturally around the body, cut in swooping asymmetrical lines to create slashed, one-shoulder tunics, halter neck dresses and tailored jackets with uneven hems. Mugler has never been for the faint of heart, but S/S 12 offered a workable, softer take on the house’s aggressive archives.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Long / Asymmetric / Lean / Body conscious

Color: White / Nude / Emerald / Black / Mustard yellow

Key Items: Tailored jackets / Long gowns / Asymmetric tunics / Slim leather leggings / Cutout cocktail dresses / Long-sleeve body conscious dresses / Embellished leggings / Draped halter dresses

Materials: Stretch jersey / Silk / Leather / Cotton / Chiffon

Print + Pattern: Vine graphics

Details + Trim: Rhinestones / Zippers / Cutouts / Uneven hems / Patent leather inserts / Padded shoulders / Gathering / Pleating

Accessories + Footwear: Pointed platform heels / Nude strappy sandals

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