Theyskens’ Theory

New York: Olivier Theyskens stepped away from grunge this season, abandoning the studied dishevelment of his Spring collection in favor of clean minimalism and a targeted use of texture. Geometric quilting reminiscent of fencing uniforms was the designer’s central technique, giving structure to a simple sheath dresses, peeking out beneath a-line felt skirts, and adding volume to full trousers. Shorts and miniskirts in smooth leather or ponyhair left room for slouchy waffle knit sweaters and elongated menswear blazers, each silhouette grounded by tall, equestrian-style leather boots. Paired with cozy blanket coats or enhanced with sheer bodice panels, Theyskens’ expert tailoring made Fall’s spongy textures light but substantial, each piece as wearable as it was warm.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Rectangular / Relaxed / A-line / Round shoulder

Color: Mushroom / Black / Cream / Rich olive / Deep cobalt verging on navy / Charcoal / Oyster / Dove grey / White / Silver

Key Items: Elongated menswear blazers / A-line miniskirts / Oversize waffle knit sweaters / Cropped jackets with round shoulders / Ponyhair shorts / Full trousers / Quilted tops & dresses / Blanket coats / Sequin embellished evening dresses

Materials: Felted wool / Leather / Waffle knits / Cashmere blends / Tweed / Ponyhair / Crisp cotton / Bouclé / Satin / Shaved furs / Lurex tweed

Print + Pattern: Tweed checks / Ombré fades / Mottled paint transfers

Details + Trim: Wide lapels / Quilting / Zippers / Wide cropped sleeves / Self belts / Sheer panels / Fishtail hems / Sequins

Accessories + Footwear: Stiff knee-high leather boots / Leather gloves


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