16 hours ago | By Laura Welch
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New York: Plaid separates and slouchy silhouettes demonstrated Olivier Theyskens’ commitment to the nouveau grunge aesthetic that he has cultivated since his first collection for the Theyskens’ Theory label. But this season, the designer also added in trim, tailored pieces, giving the offering a more pulled-together, grown-up feel. The pantsuit was a key element, appearing with a range of jacket styles, from shrunken to boyfriend to peplum. Sensible A-line skirts fell just below the knee. Jeans were skintight and treated; some were made from shiny twill rather than denim. The jeans, in addition to silky shorts and woven tees, will appeal to a younger crowd, while suits will skew slightly older, expanding the label’s clientele, yet still maintaining its sense of cool.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Slouchy / A-line / Body-hugging
Color: Black / Navy / Chocolate brown / Pearl / Peach / Denim blue / Icy grey
Key Items: Pantsuits / Treated skinny jeans / A-line skirts / Oversized coats / Cropped sweaters
Materials: Denim / Shiny suitings / Slick leather / Cotton jersey / Organza / Laundered satin / CDC / Chiffon / Medium-gauge yarns
Print + Pattern: Plaid / Camouflage / Stripes
Details + Trim: Peplums / Texture prints / Ombré
Accessories + Footwear: Chain-strap frame bags of various sizes / Flat ankle boots / Wedge-heel ankle boots / Wedge pumps / Lace-up work boots
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