May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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RETURN TO LUXURY
New York: Relying on less grunge deconstruction and more voluminous tailoring, this Spring’s Theyskens’ Theory was a cleaner presentation for the designer, with an emphasis on suiting and outerwear that bore a hint of Margiela’s avant-garde proportions. Soon, echoes of Theyskens’ own high-fashion past arrived in heavily luxurious beaded ice-blue dresses and intricate honeycomb fringe embellishments, as well as halter ballgowns scattered with starburst crystals. But the everyday items this collaboration has recently produced were few, mostly limited to a degraded olive denim ensemble, an intriguing look which could have used more exploration.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Skinny tailored / Tapered / Square / Rounded / Oversized
Color: Black / Russian blue / Ice blue / White / Olive
Key Items: Sharp-shoulder blazers / Slouchy crewneck sweaters / Double-breasted jacket dresses / Oversized satin baseball jackets / Cape coats / Sleeveless shift dresses / Round shouldered, wide tops / Halter ballgowns
Materials: Denim / Tweed / Openweave knits / Smooth leather / Satin / Silk fringe / Sheer chiffon
Print + Pattern: Honeycomb patterns
Details + Trim: Pleating / Beading / Zippers / Gathered sleeves / Honeycomb fringe patterns / Contrast piping / Distressing
Accessories + Footwear: T-strap sandals / Peep-toe boots / Delicate lace-up sandals
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