Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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New York: Invoking the lore of “Gotham”, Olivier Theyskens looked to the city’s streets as inspiration for his f/w 12 presentation. A deliberately murky palette worked to realize the the sort of modern sportswear that metropolitan 20-somethings live in; sharp jackets, chunky oversized sweaters, low-slung trousers, complemented A-line leather skirts, enveloping coats, and hosiery-paired winter-shorts. Few would have guessed that a designer lauded for ushering in contemporary fashion’s fixation with “demi-couture” would enjoy equal applause for his treatment of everyday wardrobe staples, but Theyskens has shown that he knows accessible fashion as well as he knows the atelier. –Kibwe Chase-Marshall
Silhouette: Tailored / Slim / Belted / Boxy / Fit’n flare / Abbreviated / A-line / Hourglass
Color: Black / Slate / Silt / Cobalt / Marigold / Mustard / Pumpkin / Navy / Dove / Celadon
Key Items: Sharply tailored jacket / Enveloping outerwear / Winter-short / Slouchy trouser / A-line skirt
Materials: Leather / Suede / Silk georgette / Over-dyed cotton denim / Cashere-wool coating / Stretch wool gabardine / Silk Georgette / Silk-nylon jacquard / Bonded cotton poplin / Broadtail
Print + Pattern: Gemstone photo-print / Tonal kaleidoscope / Repeated gem
Details + Trim: Square-padded shoulder / Trouser pleating / Denim hand-abrasion / Crochet-applique neckline / Fixed-pleat yoke / Pocket-free jacket
Accessories + Footwear: Platform boot / Platform pump
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