Theyskens’ Theory

New York: Olivier Theyskens’ Pre-Fall collection for Theory had a distinctly glam-rock slouch, as if his grunge muse decided to add some shimmer to her wardrobe. Although the 90s references remained in the form of combat boots paired with babydoll dresses, elongated cardigans and floor length skirts, a dash of daring 70s shine appeared via attention-getting silver trousers, shaggy fur jackets and mirror-finish cowboy boots. All of that swagger served to lighten Theyskens’ occasionally gothic tendencies and even allowed room for sweetness in the end, as the presentation closed on a delicately embroidered sheer white tank dress. Encompassing everything from slim stovepipes and leather motorcycle jackets to diaphanous printed silks and drop waist skater dresses, this designer cast a wide net to catch his notoriously progressive customer.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: Full / Elongated / Slim / Flared / Lean

Color: Black / Navy / White / Slate / Aubergine / Burgundy

Key Items: Floor-length skirts / Stovepipes / Slouchy shorts / Sheer blouses / Leather motorcycle jackets / Satin miniskirts / Cropped tweed jackets / Jersey t-shirts / Sheer bomber jackets / Elongated cardigans / Tank dresses / Fitted skater dresses / Sharp shoulder blazers / Long trench coats

Materials: Leather / Jersey / Wool / Denim / Sheer silk / Tweed / Satin / Fur / Tissue knits / Intarsia knits

Print + Pattern: Florals / Tonal stripes / Abstract geometrics

Details + Trim: Appliqué / Embroidery / Beading / Paillettes / Sheer panels / Gathering

Accessories + Footwear: Combat boots / Silver cowboy boots / Jeweled tights / Shoulder bags / Leather backpacks / Skinny belts

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