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Theyskens’ Theory

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GOTH GRUNGE

New York: After a tumultuous past decade, it looks like Olivier Theyskens has finally found an unlikely home at Theory. Known for its commercial, subtly chic careerwear, the brand has helped tame some of Theyskens’ more romantic (read: expensive) inclinations. Set to a soundtrack of Marilyn Manson’s Beautiful People, the collection had goth (long, willowy silhouettes; black lace) and 90s grunge references (dull plaids; slouchy, oversized separates) – movements that reference the same era as Theyskens’s heyday, and are reemerging themes for the contemporary market – as well as hints of Japanese minimalism (kimono coats, cape-like tunics). Of course, Theyskens could not resist a few indulgences, such as in the Edwardian-inspired gowns and billowy sheer dresses that closed the show, although their pared-down aesthetic was right in line with the DNA of the brand and its price point.

Color: Cranberry / Indigo / Shades of grey / Teal / Midnight blue/ Olive / Poppy red

Key Items: Chunky cable-knit sweaters / Stone-washed tee / Pleated-front, low-slung trousers / Flared pants / Slim jeans / Leather and denim “hot pants” / Edwardian skirt / Broom skirt / Cable-knit dress / Sheer dress / Long cardi-coat / Duster coat / Kimono coat

Print + Pattern: Grunge plaids / Overlapping inky blueprints

Materials: Pony hair / Overdyed denim / Wool suitings / Suede / Crinkled cotton / Sparkly tulle / Spiderweb lace / Silk taffeta / Texture-patterned jacquard

Accessories + Footwear: Skinny belt / Peplum belt / Thigh-high boots

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