Dec 06, 2018 | By Jane Boddy
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Jun 16, 2017
It’s been a packed four days for the WGSN editors as London Fashion Week Men’s returned to the city with full force, kicking off a season that will spread across Paris, Milan and New York.
London Fashion Week Men’s (LFW) continues to prove itself as a platform for showcasing emerging, talent alongside seasoned veterans. From new, hotly anticipated talents such as Grace Wales Bonner and A-Cold-Wall’s Samuel Ross, through to Vivienne Westwood closing out the week, LFWM continued London’s long-running reputation as being the origin of many, very established style movements, but also of risk-taking and nurturing young creativity.
WGSN’s Menswear team have published a guide to the most important takeaways from LFWM, which subscribers can read here. Just to give you a little taste, here are some of our absolute highlights.
Martine Rose, self-proclaimed as ‘probably the best designer in the world,’ stands out as a show in tune with the future of menswear. ‘The anti-fashion elevated street looks sent down the catwalk by British designer Martine Rose stuck the perfect balance between ‘of the moment’ relevancy and ‘’what’s next’ progression’ says WGSN’s Senior Menswear Editor Brian Trunzo. ‘Keenly tuned in to youth culture, Martine Rose has a finger on fashion’s pulse and is not letting go.’
This Christopher Ræburn hyper-modern sportswear look was picked out from the LFWM catwalk as a season highlight by WGSN’s Menswear Director Volker Ketteniss. Selected for the clever use of colour and technical transparency, Volker adds that ‘while the shorts may be directional for most, the layered top combination in hi-vis orange and oxblood just looked fantastic.’
Described as the ‘master of subtle brilliance’ by our Senior Menswear Editor Brian Trunzo, LFWM Veteran Hussein Chalayan was a real standout this season. ‘This buttoned kangaroo pocket boatneck pullover drives home how simple, elegant garments can make a big impact,’ Brian adds. ‘Paired with pleated, relaxed trousers, it creates a clean, sophisticated look that allows the details to do the talking.’
WGSN has been discussing the new rise in tailoring in our recent Big Ideas report. We’ve seen a step towards the return to smart dressing with the Charlie Casely-Hayford X Topman collaboration, and now, Grace Wales Bonner’s collection is a perfect example of the ‘balance between newness and simple sophistication that gets younger generation interested in tailoring again’ says our Menswear Director Volker Ketteniss.
Alex Mullins was responsible for giving us our denim fix at this season’s London Fashion Weeks Men’s. Senior Denim Editor Samuel Trotman singled out the Alex Mullins show for featuring a ‘range of offbeat silhouettes’ such as this twisted take on the denim trucker. ‘Oversize has been a huge trend and I love this asymmetric shape with dropped shoulder and elongated sleeves,’ he added.
Samuel Ross’ second showing at LFWM was an impressively accomplished collection which snuck in at the end of the week to be one of Nick Paget’s absolute favourites of #lmfw for SS18. “Authentic-feeling, driven by real talent and an impeccable eye for detail, this was honed and crafted beyond my expectation. From cleverly customized footwear to pieces with interestingly blocked panels, the show had a considered feel.” Based on the concept of accomplishment and betterment (or the frustrations around the lack thereof) through education and work experiences, the show was a comment on the pressures on young people and the struggle to find their way in the world.
As the party came to an end and stylists, photographers, models and celebrities headed for Milan but the impact of the London shows lingered.
“While there are still provocateurs and eccentric creatives whose artistic but strongly political points were not lost (and are to be celebrated in such uncertain times), London now hosts a wealth of shows and presentations that showcase really wearable and understandable menswear,” says Nick Paget. “Creating and maintaining this balance is a credit to the British Fashion Council, since it means London competes with New York in a way it previously didn’t. And long may it continue!”
Subscribers, read the full WGSN report for highlights and key trends here.
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