May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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NEW YORK… While Fashion Week is still in its early days with the major players yet to show, there are already a few clear signals coming from the younger and second tier designers confirming several of Stylesight’s previous predictions; many shades of grey looks set to be New York’s number one neutral palette, followed by brown and tan mixes. Clean and classic tailored looks (suits, tuxedo jackets, menswear-influenced fabrics, sweater-dressing) have not been this significant in years. These points were clearly demonstrated in the collection from Adam Lippes with its predominantly gray-blue group of sportswear separates; wide legged pants, a side-tie tunic style vest and slim line cardigan sweater dress. It was such a surprisingly toned-down collection from this young up-and-comer that it seems to signify many more similarly clean and sober looks to come later in the week.
The cross-over between active and R-T-W increases by the season. Christophe Lemaire set the scene for his fall/winter show with a snow-storm in the background and a sheepskin underfoot. Athletic and alpine influences mixed and mashed-up with ski and schoolgirl to produce a collection filled with wearable sportswear pieces to suit a variety of women. Highlights included gray flannel blazers, blouson jackets, full legged pants and cuffed shorts, ski jackets and yes, they’re back, leg warmers! A fresh looking pop color is emerging, an intense shade of golden, yellow mustard
The F/W 08/09 Form show was held in the recently re-opened New Museum, and was not only a regular runway show, but also part of a challenge to be used on the Bravo network’s “Make Me a Supermodel”. This show, hosted by Nikki Taylor and Tyson, happens in “real time” with viewers voting on who gets to stay and who gets eliminated. This week, competing models are walking in front of actual Fashion Week audiences, including at the Form show. All gimmicks aside, this collection was a wonderful mix of sharp and edgy tailoring with soft drapery, and splashes of vibrant color. The fur muffs and wrapped up head scarves brought a certain Nordic vibe to the event which was, apart from for the model who was eliminated, an all-around success!
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